Subtraction Cutting

Li Zhiyu
Aug 7, 2017
2 min read

'Subtraction Cutting' is the name given to an experimental method of hollow construction developed by fashion designer and academic Julian Roberts, taught by him at universities worldwide since 1998. can be used diversely to make mens and womens fashion garments, accessories, and hollow interior/exterior products.

Displacement Technique, Plug Technique, Tunnel Technique. Conventional geometry is dominated by solids. Textiles are more liquid.

9.8.2017

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The techniques often build from the shape of an initial flat piece of material. This initial material is then sliced or opened up with holes, allowing the material to be twisted upon itself, fed through itself or enlarged with more pieces of fabrics. The potential for different garment designs that could emerge from this subtraction technique are endless.

Subtraction Pattern Cutting

The Cutting Class by Yohji Yamamoto

Cream dress, Spring-Summer 2000

Similarly, this technique also can be used in jewelry design. I have tried some test pieces with paper, because the meatal material is too hard and can not fold it at will. Every pieces of my work starts with a piece of paper, After fold them at will, I cut out some shapes. And then, unfold them and fold them in a different way. I get a exaggerated ring.